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Full of Myself (The lLife of Johnny Dawes)
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Praise for the man and book from Leo Houlding…”Johnny Dawes is the enigmatic front man of an eclectic band of British climbers who in the mid 1980`s redefined the standards of difficulty and danger in traditional climbing. Introducing the world to the impossible grades of E8 & E9, and laying the foundations of the modern scene, Johnny`s unique style and character have become legend. This long awaited book gives his take on a highly influential period of climbing history and a look inside the mind of a tormented genius. Written with devoted passion and brutal honesty, “Full of Myself” lays bare Johnny`s bipolar mix of privilege and pain, wizardry and dysfunction. Master of friction and maestro of momentum on rock and road, orchestrator of contemporary climbing techniques such as the dead-point and dyno, the living embodiment of poetry in motion turns his hand to the pen with great effect.” Ed Douglas adds…”Johnny Dawes is a legend in British climbing. In 1986, he was responsible for the most inspired new route in a generation, when he climbed Indian Face on Clogwyn d`ur Arddu in Snowdonia. Difficult and tenuous, a fall from its hardest move would most likely be fatal.But Dawes is much more than a risk-taker. His rich imagination has left a legacy of outstanding new routes all over the country, not least on the gritstone edges of Derbyshire where his bold and fluid style reached its fullest expression. He`s an artist really, a choreographer with a warrior spirit.” And from Simon Beaufoy (Academy Award winning screenwriter of “The Full Monty” and “Slumdog Millionaire”)…”Each generation produces a handful of visionaries, people who can see beyond the possible. Whether he likes it or not, Johnny is climbing`s visionary. There are accounts of terrifying first-ascents on crumbling sea cliffs and even more terrifying accounts of van-driving around Wales. At the heart of the book is a man traversing on crystals towards some kind of understanding of who he is, a man less earth-bound than us climbing mortals, but who cannot, quite, fly. Much like his climbing, his imagination leaps – this is a beautiful book about an extraordinary person. William Blake with sticky boots.”